Surfing is like nothing else. It's sunburnt backs and bloodshot eyes. It's paddling back out for one more, 10 times. Surfing is melting wax and burning sand. It's warm water, salt water, and a dry mouth. It's calling a mate into the best wave of the morning. Surfing is tubes and turns and flying down the line. It's head-dips and chop-hops, hoots and high-fives. It's three fins and one fin, two fins and none. Surfing is being local yet still searching. It's road trips, boarding passes and rocking boats. It's a tropical reef and a track through the dunes. Surfing is the first view of the ocean every morning. Surfing is who we are...
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